Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts

Saturday, 7 September 2019

Sir Edmund Hillary

This is a bit of a different blog - I'm going to call it an "audioblog" - think it might catch on?  Anyway, earlier this week I interviewed Peter and Alexander Hillary, the son & grandson of Sir Edmund Hillary and I was planning to transcribe the interview into blog form but then thought it might be nicer to just listen to it all instead (plus it would have been a *really* long blog)!

I've broken it down into 4 sections, each of around 4 minutes each, so you don't have to listen to it all at once.  They were both utterly delightful and, what you can't see (because I'm only publishing the audio files not the full Skype call) is that there was lots of smiling and laughing.  It's my first ever experience of doing anything like this so I hope you enjoy it!

Section 1 - where we chat about Sir Edmund Hillary and what it was like having him as a father/ grandfather



Section 2 - where we chat about their clothing range and how it is respnsibly sourced



Section 3 - where we chat about present day mountaineering and the future


Section 4 - where we chat about Mallory, clothing and Kendal Mint Cake



I'll be honest, at the end of the interview, immediately after I said my thank yous and bid the lovely gents farewell, I cracked up and had a little cry.  My bookshelves are full of books by/ about Hillary, Scott, Mallory etc. so it was quite overwhelming to chat to Peter and Alexander and I am so incredily grateful that they took the time to speak with me.


Their clothing range looks superb - you can buy it locally at Joules B in Kendal or online here.

If you're interested in investing in the clothing range as they expand in the future, you can find out more here.

FINALLY - I am massively indebted to Helen Woodman who is a friend of my friend Vicki.  It turns out that Helen's mum sewed the name labels into Sir Edmund Hillary's clothing for the expedition and she has written a small piece about it.  I've included the full text below with her kind permission (and my eternal thanks!).  Sadly, Betty passed away earlier this year.

Cash’s Name Tapes and the Ascent of Everest on 29 May 1953

My mother, Betty Genn (née Mott), an Australian Grazier’s daughter from the outback in North West Queensland, Australia, met my father, Robert Seymour Genn MC, at Farnborough when he was Adjutant, 9 Training Regiment, Royal Engineers, at Cove, Aldershot, in 1951. Betty had not long arrived in the UK and found work at Aldershot General Hospital as a trained nurse and midwife. She had come over to the UK on a whim to accompany her sister, a Rocket Tracker Computer from Long Range Weapons at Woomera Test Range, and two other girls who had the expertise required by the Royal Aircraft Establishment at Farnborough. The four girls lived in a hostel in Farnborough. Betty and Bob got married soon after and lived in the married quarters at Southwood Camp, Cove.

My father was a junior officer under the then Colonel John Hunt, and on 11 September 1952 Hunt was chosen to lead the expedition for the ascent of Everest. Betty volunteered to help Joy, his wife, with part of the enormous task of sorting equipment and sewing name tapes on to the personal equipment and clothes of the team members. She journeyed up to London by train for days on end in the freezing cold of January/February 1952 (this was a girl from the tropics who had only just seen her first snow on her wedding day) to the warehouse at Wapping Wall of Messrs. Andrew Lusk, where all the expedition equipment and provisions were being gathered, prepared and packed for the boat journey leaving Tilbury for Bombay and onward transmission to Base Camp at the foot of Everest. As far as I understand, Joy Hunt, Mrs. Goodfellow, Mrs. Mowbray-Green and my mother (with, maybe, with other women relatives of the expedition members) spent many hours in the vast, cold Thames warehouse filled with the aroma of exotic spices. Betty, being as she calls herself “a Colonial” took pity on New Zealander, Edmund Hillary, deciding that she would sew on all his name tapes to his clothes, sleeping bags and other personal equipment. It was deemed necessary to name all personal equipment because tempers flare easily at high altitude and, besides, it was important that as the clothing had all been tailored to fit and to personal preference, each man wore his own clothing and used his own equipment. The trying on of clothing took place on 20th January at Lusk’s Warehouse. Betty recalls how she also cleaned some of the very dirty cooking equipment, pressure cookers, cutlery, plates, etc., that were piled high on the floor of the warehouse, loaned by the army. The Royal Aircraft Establishment tested materials and equipment; a new windproof material was put into the wind tunnel.

And so, on 2nd June 1953, the news came over the wireless that Betty’s sewing had ascended Mount Everest when it was announced “Her Majesty the Queen was crowned today in Westminster Abbey. Crowds waiting in the Mall also heard that Mount Everest had been climbed by the British Expedition. Messages of congratulations have been sent to the Leader, Colonel Hunt, by Her Majesty and the Prime Minister, Sir Winston Churchill.”

Betty Joan Genn, widowed in 2005, lives in Manor Street, Dittisham and will celebrate her 90th birthday in the first week of January 2014. The Wapping Wall warehouses are now prime river frontage accommodation.


Helen Woodma

Monday, 3 February 2014

Mountain Heritage Trust

Doug Scott's Boots
Copyright JEB
I blame Brian Blessed.  Back in the early 1990s I read “The Turquoise Mountain” which charts his attempt on Everest.  I’d only picked the book off the library shelves because the title appealed and I had a tendency to devour books on my regular train commute.  The title seemed to pull me away from the dull monotony of the Datchet to Richmond journey but I had no idea then quite how far it would pull me.

In the book he talked about the mystery of Mallory & Irvine and I was hooked.  As I dug out more books on the subject my interest broadened into mountain and exploration history in general, all of which goes some way to explaining why, some 20 years later, I found myself in Mountain Heritage Trust (MHT) HQ chatting to their Archivist, Maxine Willett.

I thought I had passion and enthusiasm  for the subject, but I quickly realised I’d met my match.  As we chatted about mountaineering history it was hard for me to stay focused on my mission, which was to find out more about just what MHT do.

Macinnes Ice Axe leaflet
Copyright MHT
MHT is a charity which relies on funds from the lottery and various fundraising events, its mission is to capture, collate and catalogue historical documents and artefacts relating to British Mountaineering history.  If I were to ask you to write down a list of British mountaineers within a minute or so you’d realise just how rich and impressive our mountaineering history is, and yet nowhere in this country is there a museum dedicated to celebrating the achievements of the men and women who led the world when it came to conquering the great outdoors.

The MHT relies on materials being donated, their budget doesn’t stretch to bidding in private auctions, but luckily their work is supported by a plethora of climbing greats from Sir Chris Bonington to Doug Scott and the family of Joe Tasker who recently donated a number of valuable items to the collection.

The aim of MHT is to pass on the passion by re-telling the adventures and achievements of our great climbers and encouraging and inspiring others as they embark on their own adventures.  They do this by working with schools, outdoors organisations, local museums and anyone else who wants to join them in their mission.  
Tricouni Nailed Boots
Copyright MHT


The Chorley-Hopkinson Mountaineering Library is housed in the National Trust property at Allan Bank as part of an ongoing working relationship between the two organisations, Additionally they currently have an exhibition at Keswick Museum which reflects on how the First World War affected a talented generation of climbers, personified by Siegfried Herford. In 1914, Herford had made the first ascent of Central Buttress on Scafell, one of the hardest climbs of the era, only to be tragically killed in 1916 aged 24. Also on display is the glass plate camera used by George and Ashley Abraham.

Their next exhibition, opening May 2015, is entitled ‘Kangchenjunga: Five Treasures of the High Snow’ and will commemorate the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955 by George Band and Joe Brown, one of our Patrons. It will also highlight the lightweight ascent in 1979 by Doug Scott, Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker.

There's more info on all the events here http://www.mountain-heritage.org/news/sir-chris-80-rgs/

In an increasingly digital age where information is everywhere in the form of blogs, emails and social media, it’s vital that the work of MHT is encouraged and supported as they piece together diaries, letters and other accounts that chart the many achievements in British mountaineering history.  Their goal is to one day have their own dedicated museum, with permanent exhibits and interactive displays where visitors can learn more about our rich history of adventure and achievement and I, for one, would love to be there when they do (and maybe if I ask nicely, they'll invite Brian Blessed along too.)

Dougal Haston's oxygen equipment used on ascent of Everest 1975
Copyright JEB

Copyright MHT

Super Charlet Ice Axe. Purchased by Jerry Smith in Chamonix in 1955 and used by him on his expedition to Ruwenzori (December 1955) and on first winter ascents of Parallel Buttress and the Black Spout Pinnacle on Lochnagar. Also possibly used on Antarctica expedition 1956-1958. Following Jerry Smith's death in 1959 the axe was used by Walter Dowlen (a close friend) for winter climbing in the Alps 1961, 1962 & 1964 including an ascent of Mont Blanc


Modern Ice Axe
Copyright MHT
Jeffcoat, Laycock, Thompson, Herford on Castle Naze c 1912- 13
Copyright unknown & any further information appreciated!