Spirit Trail Day 7 - I'd bring fewer pants next time...

So, just about 1 week into our first ever multi-day hike and we were discussing what we'd

learned so far. The over-riding lesson for both of us was that we didn't need as much underwear as we thought we'd need and I really begrudge carrying around grubby undies.  When you have to carry everything around on your back the word "essential" becomes much more clearly defined.

One thing which is absolutely essential is the requirement to carry the very kind gifts which many of the folks we've met have generously given us. (I know the English in that sentence is shocking but it's late & I'm tired).  Take this morning for example - we just popped in to see Anthony in Windermere Wines and he handed over 2 small bottles of Mint Cake liqueur sent over by "Minty Mike" - that's definitely worth dumping your grubby undies for.

With Anthony & Mint Cake Liqueurat Windermere Wines

As we made our way down the hill to Bowness we passed another off-licence & this one stocked a local liqueur we'd missed on our original list - Gingerbread Vodka. It was utterly delicious and required me to buy a small bottle for "research purposes".

Today some of you may say we cheated but it has always been our intention on this project to offer this as a route you can hike if you want or, if you prefer you can use other modes of transport (apart from driving if you're planning to try any samples!), so from Bowness we hopped onto the steamer to Ambleside.  There is honestly no better way to explore the lake and today we were treated to the most spectacular sight - a rainbow mist.  I've never seen anything quite like it, utterly breathtaking, and something we just wouldn't have seen from the shore.

Stunning rainbow mist from Windermere cruiser

View from steamer at Waterhead

Our accommodation for the night is Brathay Hall & we are both mightly impressed at the value for money here. Unbeatable location at the head of the lake and simple but perfectly proportioned rooms containing everything you need.

Brathay Hall

As you know, I spend a lot of time on Twitter and one place I've exchanged many tweets with over the past year or so is Dodd's restaurant in Ambleside - their daily specials look so divine that I've occasionally come close to licking the screen of my phone...  When they heard about our hike they invited us over and I was powerless to resist!

The food is glorious - all freshly cooked in a proper kitchen by chefs I can see. No nasty microwave re-heats and plenty of variety and flavour.  The place was understandably packed with folks waiting patiently for a seat - always the sign of a great restaurant.

Beautiful fresh made food at Dodds

With Lazlo - head chef at Dodd's

I was properly full by the end but, as we're back hiking again tomorrow, I prefer to see it as essential carbo-loading rather than gratuitous stuffing of our faces.  Huge credit to Lazlo & his team for creating something truly special.

Tomorrow we're heading up & over Loughrigg and learning more about illicit spirit production in the region so if you spot me in a homebrew shop in the next month or so, you'll know why.

BEFORE YOU GO please take a moment to like & follow all of our supporters - they are all wonderful folks without whom this trip would have been really boring. Please click on the photos above to visit the folks we met today. Thank you. 😀

10 Fascinating Facts about Cumbria

Writing a book with the word "History" in the title is bound to put some people off.  We don't all love history.  Hell, *I* didn't even love history when I was at school - I'd be nodding off before you could say 1066.  Our mission is to unearth facts that have the "oooohh" factor - as in "oooohh, I never knew that" - so here are 10 of my favourite fab facts about Cumbria; some are in the book and some aren't, but I guarantee all of them are more fun than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.

1.  There used to be a bridge from Bowness-on-Solway to Scotland, but it was demolished due to drunken Scots.

The bridge was over 1 mile long and was used by iron ore carrying trains to avoid the busy junction at Carlisle.  It was badly damaged by icebergs in 1881 after the rivers Esk & Eden froze - as they thawed ice broke off and demolished a third of the bridge.  It was rebuilt but eventually closed in 1921.  At that time you couldn't buy alcohol in Scotland on a Sunday so, each Sunday a number of our Scottish friends crossed the bridge to enjoy a "relaxing sweet sherry" after dinner.  Unfortunately they were prone to having one too many and, after a few folks sadly fell from the bridge and drown as they staggered home, the bridge was demolished in 1933.

2.  George Washington's Granny is buried in Whitehaven

Honestly, there are SO many fascinating things to say about Whitehaven that it's hard to pick just one - but this was the one that surprised me the most.  Mildred Gale - George Washington's paternal grandmother is buried there.  She was born in Virginia but married a shipping merchant who traded on ships between Virginia and Whitehaven (which was a very busy and important port at that time).  She's buried in St Nicholas' churchyard, though the exact location of the grave isn't known.

3.  There's a road which runs parallel to the A6 between Kendal and Shap which used to be one of the most important roads in the country.

OK, it doesn't parallel the whole way - it does criss cross a few times, but the Old North Road is still there and very easy to spot.  Most of it remains accessible and it makes for a lovely walk well away from the crowds.  There's a fabulous road map from 1675 which records all of the main coach roads in Britain - there were only 4 roads noted in the whole of Cumbria and this is one of them. And if a dusty old book from the seventeenth century doesn't impress you then maybe the fact that AW himself loved the old road and was fascinated by its history might persuade you to take a second look.

4.  Grange-over-Sands got its name from an annoyed vicar

You may have noticed that there are two Granges in Cumbria - the one up near Keswick and Grange-over-Sands in the south - but until 1858 they were both just called Grange (a name usually indicating a nearby granary).  When the Reverend Wilson Rigg arrived in the southern Grange, after an eventful coach journey across Morecambe Bay sands, he quickly got fed up of his mail getting misdirected to Keswick Grange, so he changed the name of the town to Grange-over-Sands to distinguish between the two.

5.  There's a rock up above Launchy Gill that was the site of illegal trading

Anyone who's ever trekked from Ullscarf to High Tove will tell you what a bogfest it is - unless they did it when it was all frozen solid (a top tip for those attempting all the Wainwrights).  There are only a few rocks up there and one of them has an interesting history. When the plague hit in 1665 public markets were stopped to try and prevent the spread of the disease, but people still needed money, so the folks of Thirlmere Valley had a plan...  Far away from the eyes of the law they snuck up onto the top of the fell to a place called Web Rock to trade their "web" (woven fabric) and earn money to buy food.  No-one has quite pinpointed exactly which rock it is but there are a few likely contenders.

6.  Kentmere had such rowdy drunks they changed the law of the land

Back in the nineteenth century there were plenty of mines, quarries and mills along the Kentmere valley and, on payday, things could get a bit rowdy.  In 1887 the pub in the village had its licence revoked thanks to the lively goings on.  The owners pursued the decision all the way to the House of Lords and ultimately lost but their case Sharp -v- Wakefield set a precedent still cited today.

7.  The Cumbrian Dialect is a foreign language

Many folks are familiar with the "Yan, tan, tethera" sheep counting language used in Cumbria, but the Cumbrian dialect (now sadly in decline) is pretty much a language in its own right.  During World War Two a local gent who joined the Royal Navy was stationed in Iceland - he spoke with a strong Cumbrian dialect and apparently had little trouble conversing with the locals.

8.  The monks of Furness Abbey engaged in both smuggling and bribery

Furness Abbey is a beautiful place to visit, sadly now a ruin but back in the day it was one of the most powerful Abbies in the country.  The monks built the castle on Piel Island to support their import and export trade which, as they didn't pay any taxes on it, was basically a smuggling operation.  The Abbot is also said to have paid a "ransom" to Robert the Bruce to protect the Abbey.  Some call it a "ransom" others may call it a "bribe".  I bet their confessions were interesting...

9.  George Stevenson planned an enormous bridge from Morecambe to Ulverston

When they were originally planning the expansion of the railways in the region, George Stevenson proposed the idea of running a railway line directly out across Morecambe Bay.  The enormous structure would have connected Morecambe to Ulverston, but the backers of the time understandably got the jitters and backed out of the idea, leading to the current railway and viaduct we see today.

10.  There was once a plan to heat Cumbria using geothermal energy

Shap Granite with its big pink crystals is easily recognisable and was much used in architecture across the country (including the bollards around St Paul's Cathedral in London).  As recently as the 1980s the British Geological Survey carried out test drilling to see if there was enough residual heat deep down in the rocks to provide heat to the county - sadly there wasn't, but then the rock is over 400 million years old.


Our books are PACKED with hundreds of fascinating nuggets just like these so please don't think it's just another boring old history book.  Click here to find out more and buy your copy.

Click here for more info

We also offer a number of guided walks, visitng places with lots of interesting history.  You can find out more about those right here.

Legless in the Lakes (Day 2)

Twinkly Hayes Garden World

Let's face it, it was going to happen sooner rather than later so it may as well be today.  You can't consider a week long visit for a non-hiker without a trip to a garden centre, so today we kicked off with garden centre number one.  Garden centres, you know the places; vast buildings choc full of clothes, pets, food, scented candles, toys, games, sweets, gadgets, gizmos and, at this time of year, lots of Christmas decorations.  Not sure where those people seeking things of a horticultural nature go, but the modern "garden centre" probably isn't it.  Long time readers will know that, given the choice, I would normally opt for a day spent listening to fingernails being scraped down blackboards than a day spent shopping, but needs must and all that. So, in the true spirit of the season "Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to Hayes we go".

At this time of year the place is impossible to miss; a vast empire of twinkling lights, fake snow and Christmas trees, but the parking is easy and the cafe well stocked with assorted goodies.  Never underestimate the enormity of the emporium; it takes several days to explore properly, in fact I'm pretty sure I spotted Rannulph Feinnes & his party preparing for their next antarctic expedition by navigating around the Edinburgh Woollen Mill with only a sextant and a few tins of Pemmican between them and oblivion.

Am I the only person that always feels utterly inadequate when visiting a garden centre?  To start with I meander along aisles of green and verdant house plants sitting smug on the shelves and silently mocking me as I pass by, perhaps I should wreak my revenge and buy one, that'll teach it.  In my house I'd give to 3 weeks, 4 tops, before it's a shriveled wreck begging to be returned to whence it came or dispatched without further ado to meet it's maker with dignity.  And, however well prepared I am, I'm always, apparently, one season out of sync.  Just as I'm thinking it's OK to be getting to grips with chrissy decs and the like I find that they're now "so last week" and it's time for me to be planting spring bulbs.  After a lovely lunch we made our way back to the car park past a group of people cursing friends, neighbours and Christmas in general as they bought "Joy to the World" and "Peace to all Mankind" table decorations...

Slippy slidey Grasmere.

Deciding we needed some fresh air I ran through a list of nearby towns we could visit:  Ambleside - too hilly, Bowness - too busy and too hilly, Grasmere - just right!  It's not just hiking that needs to be considered when exploring the lakes with someone with mobility problems; the gradient of the towns and proximity of the car parks to the shops needs to be considered too.  So off we toddled.  For those reading this at some point in the future let me remind you that today, 3rd Dec 2012, was very cold with a little ice and slushy snow kicking about in the mid lakes area.

We were soon at Grasmere and I have to say I was most disappointed to see that many businesses hadn't bothered to clear the pavement in front of their shop/ cafe/ hotel.  My mum is a determined soul but can't take the risk of slipping over so although Grasmere was perfect from a topographical perspective, it was hopeless from a "Dancing on Ice" perspective.  Considering the vast number of elderly visitors that area of the lakes receives every year I was more than a little surprised.  After a little driving around we found a quiet corner to park in just a short walk from the wonderful Herdy shop, but we dared not venture any further, at least not on foot anyway.

My fav view of my fav fell. Was a wee bit cloudier than
this today.

Given the poor conditions underfoot our final leg today was a drive along Thirlmere, a right fork along Back Lane to the foot of the beautiful Blencathra, a sharp left to Keswick and loop back down Thirlmere to Ambleside arriving late enough to enjoy their spectacular chrissy lights. It was a lovely day but it was a real shame that we couldn't venture far from the car unless we were indoors.  I've a feeling there will be another garden centre involved tomorrow, so I'd better sign off now and fortify myself with a large, and possibly gin related, nightcap.  And, if you've got any suggestions for places we could visit, please feel free to add them below.

Cumbrian Nightlife

I'm taking a break from the outdoors today (well, mainly) and continuing my campaign to prove that there's much more to Cumbria than Wainwright and the fells.  As you'll know if you've been following this blog for any length of time our first 18 months or so up here were very frugal indeed, nothing desperate, but there was certainly no budget for eating out.  In fact during that time we ate "out" only twice, both times were at the fabulous local chippy and on both occasions other people paid.  Last week I ate "out" for 3 nights out of 4, and the variety of experiences show just what Cumbria has to offer.

Windermere

Wednesday night I was in Bowness to meet up with fellow blogger and soon to be published author Heelwalker1 (otherwise known as Tanya Oliver).  Being rather better acquainted with the local hostelries than I am, Tanya selected the venue; the rather lovely Village Inn opposite the church in Bowness.  I was running late and couldn't find the place so after a few laps of the church I finally asked someone where it was.  "Turn around" she said, and there it was, directly opposite with the words Village Inn helpfully written in large letters above the door.  And the windows.  And on the sign at the edge of the road.  Hard to believe I can make it up and down the fells in one piece isn't it?

The dinner and the company were lovely, though I confess to being a little like a fish out of water in such places - I'm always worried I'm wearing the wrong clothes and convinced that I'll drop and break something expensive. (Sorry Tanya - that might explain why I fidgeted and fled so early, it wasn't your company I promise!).  But if you're looking for a wide choice of "gastro pub" style dining options, plus a variety of other restaurants, it would appear that Bowness is your place to go.

The prom, Grange-over-Sands

Friday night saw us visiting an altogether different place; the At Home Bistro in Grange-over-Sands.  This is tucked away underneath the cafe on the corner next to Higginson's and is only open on Friday and Saturday evenings.  The dining area is cosy  but everyone is so friendly that you really do feel as if you're being welcomed into someone's home.  The food was fabulous and all served on non-scary crockery.  The night we went it was really quiet and I worry that small independently run places like this will vanish in the face of corporate chains.  If you're ever in the area do try and take time to visit, I promise you won't be dissapointed.  (And don't just take my word for it - check out the reviews it gets on TripAdvisor.  It really is a hidden away gem of a place.)

A view to dine out on.

And so to Saturday night.  Well now, that was eating out on a whole different level.  What if I could offer you somewhere to eat which had ample parking, was so peaceful & quiet you could actually feel yourself unwinding as you ate and with views like the one to the right from each dining position?  I'm sure restaurateurs across the land would kill for stuff like that.  Well, this time dinning experience came courtesy of the RSPB nature reserve at Leighton Moss .  We had to bring our own food and the "dining room" was the newly rebuilt "Allen Hide" just next to the railway tracks.

Rudimentary but effective.

As we ate dinner we watched Little Egrets, Curlews and Herons fishing for their dinners, we saw Oyster Catchers and Lapwings settling down for the night and we craned our necks to see flocks of geese in wonderful V formations heading south for warmer climates.  Admittedly the food was a rather more basic affair (2 flasks of tea, a box of Ritz crackers, a tube of Primula cheese and 1/2 an Eccles cake each), but the setting really couldn't be beaten.  Plus there was no crockery to be broken, but you'd be well advised to wrap up warm, especially if you want to keep the hide windows open for the best views.

On our way back to the car we both took shots of the moon - I managed a happy accident by wobbling and turning the moon into a heart whereas Steve took a rather more "moon like" shot, but we were both very happy to have our path back to the car well lit enough for me to treat the remaining local wildlife to a rousing rendition of Moon Shadow.

So there you go, next time you visit Cumbria there should be no complaining that you can't find somewhere to eat; just watch out for the singing locals.

My wobbly heart shaped moon.

Steve's rather more lovely shot.