Great British Escapades: Arnside

Showing posts with label Arnside. Show all posts

Sunday, 7 May 2017

7 Sunset Trips

Steve has been putting up with my wayward ways for 15 years now - really the man deserves a medal - but I warned him when we first got together that I didn't plan on growing up anytime soon. This mean he still finds himself embroiled in my "crazy ass plans" from time to time, but it also means I still get childishly excited about a good sunset and am hopelessly romantic enough to enjoy watching them together.

Be warned though, a Cumbrian sunset often requires a good degree of tenacity and several layers of warm clothing - but the results are always worth it.

1. Hampsfell

This one is right on our doorstep so I had to include it first. The photo above was taken on the evening we all lit beacons to celebrate the Queen's Golden Jubilee, which explains why there are so many people on top of the Hospice. It was an absolutely perfect evening and the fells looked utterly stunning as the sun went down and, as the beacons were lit, we could see right across to Birkrigg Common and down to Warton Crag. It wasn't the most perfect night though - we were still fairly new to the fell and managed to get lost taking a "short cut" down, resulting in us wading through a huge blackberry bush and climbing a large wall - no one said romance was easy!

2. Wansfell

The thing about Wansfell sunsets is that after you're done admiring the view there's a really big, clear and easy to follow route back to the car. This photo was taken from the south side of the fell at High Skelghyll and from there the track will lead either down to Waterhead (near Ambleside) or around to Troutbeck. If you're up on top of Wansfell Pike it's more of a challenge, though there's still a relatively straighforward route back down to either Ambleside or Troutbeck - but you will need a head torch and lots of warm clothing as, even in the summer, it will get cold quickly once the sun has gone.

3. Whitehaven

Whitehaven is only a 40 minute drive from Keswick and absolutely worth it for the views. There is tons of interesting history in the town and a beautiful walk up along the cliffs to St Bees Lighthouse - with plenty of places to pause and spot a range of sea birds along the way. Once you're done head back to the town, grab a bag of chips and settle down to watch the sunset from the harbour walls - there are views over to the Isle of Man to the west and the south coast of Scotland to the north. Perfect.

4. Windermere

This one is super easy for everyone to access, although the small car park there is now pay and display. As you leave Bowness heading north watch for the car park on your left just before the roundabout to Ambleside (the perfect spot to turn around if you miss it). From there you get a spectacular view clear along the Elterwater valley to see the sun set behind the Langdale Pikes away in the distance. Many's the time we've been on our way home from a hike and pulled in there for 10 minutes to admire the view and finish off our flask of tea.

5. Red Screes Inversion

This was such a spectacular evening - just me and Steve above an inversion on top of Red Screes watching the sun set. He took so many stunning photos that night with the clouds first glowing gold before deepening in colour to resemble hot lava pouring from the sky. If you're heading high to see a sun set then do please make sure you're properly kitted out - this was a stunning evening but despite our many layers of clothing we were still pretty cold when we got back to the car. (Our secret is to leave another flask of hot tea in the boot ready for our return)

6. Sandscale Haws

I'll be honest, this is a very new discovery for us, but what a place! Just 5 minutes drive from Barrow and your surrounded by enormous sand dunes and spectacular views. We walked all the way to the south of the dunes for a picnic on the beach and, after the sun had gone down we wandered back around the edge of the dunes enjoying views like this across to Black Combe (one of my favourite fells). You'll need to check the tide times before you head out but, if you keep close in to the shore, you should be absolutely fine.

7. Arnside

We have seen hundreds of sunsets from Arnside and they never get boring. What I love about Arnside sunsets is the way the sun plays on the different patterns across Morecambe Bay at low tide - it's never the same twice. There are so many places you can watch from - Arnside Prom, the pier, the benches out along the coastal walk or, if you have folks with you who don't love the great outdoors quite as much as you do, then there are ringside seats available at The Albion (and excellent food and beer too) but, be warned, it's a very popular place.

And all the others...

There were so many others I could have included, but then the blog would have been really long and boring, but here's a few more if you fancy seeking them out.

Wetherlam

Duddon Valley

Ennerdale

Silloth

Friday, 3 July 2015

Wainwright and the secrets of the River Kent

Tracking the source of the River Kent may not sound quite as dramatic as finding the source of the Nile but, on the plus side, Cumbria is a lot easier to get to than Egypt.

Looking towards Kent Estuary from Grange-over-Sands

Working backwards the River Kent empties into Morecambe Bay between Arnside & Grange where, at especially high tides, a bore is created which impressively fills the bay with one wave. The river then tracks back up the valley and is joined near Milnthorpe by the River Bela, fresh from Dallam Park.

Dallam deer

Dallam bridge

Heading towards Kendal the Kent swings under Hawes Bridge and past a Roman Fort at Watercrook Farm before hitting the town centre. Back in the 1800's the river was hugely important to the wool trade and steps down to the river from the ends of the various yard are still in existence in a few places, showing the routes taken to wash the fleeces. (The river was, of course, used for other trades too - but washing wool is what they're best known for).

River Kent at Hawes Bridge

From Kendal the river continues back to Staveley and the Kentmere Valley. Things may look picturesque between here and the source of the river, but don't be fooled, the history of this area is dominated by industry and mining. There were paper mills, bobbin mills, lead mining and slate quarrying, all of which put demands on the river, but it was a combination of agriculture and the asbestos industry that threw up one of Kentmere's most intriguing secrets.

Kentmere valley

Kentmere Tarn is bypassed by many on their way to Kentmere Reservoir at the head of the valley (which was constructed to regulate the water supply for the industries relying on it) but the tarn holds a few secrets, some of which we haven't been fully unlocked yet.

What is now Kentmere Tarn was once a Diatomite mine supplying the asbestos industry (sorry, but you'll have to read our book for all the details - it's out in October :-) ) and as they were excavating they made a number of interesting finds. Initially they came across a number of Roman artefacts, but as they dug deeper they found something far more interesting.

In 1955 a dugout boat was discovered which was displayed for many years by the National Maritime Museum and was carbon dated to the 14th Century. Four years later, in 1959, another dugout was discovered, significantly deeper in the deposits. Its location in relation to the previous find, plus its more simplistic design indicate it could be significantly older, possibly even Viking - which would make it an incredibly exciting find - but it needs to be carbon dated before we'll know for sure.

You can go and take a close look at this second dugout as it's on display at Kendal Museum. While you're there you can also admire the many other wonderful exhibits on display and see if you spot some famous handwriting. For nearly 30 years Wainwright was Honorary Clerk and Curator at the museum and many exhibits still carry labels written in his distinctive style.

Kendal Museum have been incredibly helpful to us as we've researched our book and by way of saying thank you we're trying to raise £350 to allow them to get the second dugout boat carbon dated. We need to raise the whole amount by 5th July and we're well over halfway there BUT if we don't reach our target we lose every penny that has so far been pledged,

EDIT - WE MADE IT! HUGE thanks to everyone who donated - watch this space for news of the dating!

Please can you spare just a few pounds to help us reach our target - We thank you, Kendal Museum thank you and, if he were still around, I'm pretty sure Wainwright would thank you too!

Pretty, pretty, PRETTY please CLICK HERE to donate - Thank you!

Saturday, 13 June 2015

30 Days Wild: Day 13 - Slowing down...

I can't believe we're 3 days into our bike ride already - the time has absolutely flown past. May and June have been so hectically busy for me with lots of 7 day weeks and only the occasional evening off, all this meant that I kind of launched into day 1 (when I was probably more than a little grumpy), bounded through day 2 (with some mild grumpiness persisting) and only now on day 3 am I truly relaxing into the ride and enjoying it.

I mean look at the photo at the top of the page - Morecambe Bay is MAGNIFICENT - and this mind blowing bike ride takes in every single corner of it. PLUS, unlike pesky linear routes, the whole way around this one you can accost innocent passers by, point across the bay and tell them just how far you've cycled. Genius.

This morning we started at Grange-over-Sands station - a full 3 minutes commute from our house and it was great to see the guys from the campsite arriving:

The route took us out of Grange, through Meathop and across the A590 to Witherslack, where we all made excellent use of the community shop - well it had been nearly 2 whole hours since breakfast and snacks were sorely needed...

Then it was down through Levens to Arnside. Mostly away from main roads, but in some cases unavoidable - the stretch from Dallam through Sandside to Arnside can be a little hairy, especially when impatient drivers overtake on blind bends blaring their horns. We saw several near misses as cars dived into our group to avoid cars coming the other way - I have a simple policy on stuff like this - be a lunatic and risk your own life if you want to, but don't take risks with my life or anyone else's.

Arnside was FANTASTIC - they'd really gone all out to welcome us and put on a show - there were yellow bikes along our route, yellow balloons on the pier and superb waymarkers guiding us in.

As my nerves were a little shaken after the busy road section a few people suggested tracking down some Bach's Rescue Remedy - but I preferred a local herbal solution... (and to be fair, the road really isn't that bad, I'm just a world class wuss and if I can handle it, anyone can!)

Despite it being day 3 and despite me approaching this ride with zero preparation and a bike I'd never ridden before, I launched into the next part of the route with an enthusiasm which would have put Wiggo to shame. I can neither confirm nor deny that this was because I knew we were heading for one of my most favouritest places to see one of my most favouritest people and scoff some of my most favouritest cake. I know I was there only there a few days ago, but the RSPB reserve at Leighton Moss is just such a special place, and not only because of the carrot cake.

The lovely Annabel gave our group a guided tour and we were treated to excellent views of the female Marsh Harrier who'd clearly read the memo about our visit and put on a suitably wonderful display.

You tell 'em Annabel!

Susannah slowing down & hugging a tree.

Yes, of course I visit there for the wildlife...

After all of that the brave campers headed back to camp and we tackled the journey home. What was meant to be a quick 10 minute train ride turned into a 90 minute adventure as Northern Rail refused to let us on the first train (not enough space for the bikes). The second train arrived fresh from the 1970's complete with a good old fashioned Guard's Van and everything, tons of space for the bikes Hoorah! (I was hoping the onboard shop might have a selection of Texan Bars, Sherbet DipDabs and Opal Fruits)

Sadly, we only got as far as Arnside before it clapped out and there was a long delay before we were finally on our way to Grange. Those who know me know that patience is NOT my strong suit and I had to work hard at the "staying chilled and slowing down" thing...

Once on our way again we crossed the Kent viaduct and Morecambe Bay opened up all around us (albeit through rather grubby windows) and I remembered the whole point of this route - it's to show off this truly unique and beautiful part of the world which even on a grey evening through grubby train windows, can still take your breath away.

Friday, 31 August 2012

50 Shades of Cumbria

I thought I'd give you a break from my inane ramblings for a day and instead turn this blog over to some of Steve's amazing pics. So sit back, relax and enjoy 50 Shades of Cumbria - and only one of them's grey.