Braving the elements in Cumbria

Earth, air, water and fire are the basic elements the ancient Greeks used to explain matter.  (Not to be confused with Earth, Wind and Fire, the American R&B band who had a string of hits in the 70's and 80's including their huge hit September. You can thank me for the earworm later.)

As Steve had broken his old rucksack, those lovely folks at Millets sent us a North Face one to play with to see what we thought of it. Well, when I say "we", Steve got to play with it while I was stuck in exciting places like Wythenshawe, Hindley and Ashford (Kent) - as I braved the rigours of Northern Rail, London rush hour and the high speed train to Kent (that thing is SERIOUSLY fast - 140mph - Northern Rail, you could learn a lot!) Steve did battle with the elements on the Cumbrian hills and I wasn't jealous at all. Nope. Not one bit.  I mean, why should I be...?

AIR

Helvellyn (with awesome Akus boots from Keswick Boot Co)

Honestly, you can feel the cold air nipping at your nose here can't you?  Steve tackled Helvellyn and while I was snug and toasty in an office he sent me a text saying "on top of Helvellyn but not hanging around as it's a bit windy".  He also sent me the photo above.  I gazed out of the window at the car park and supermarket and didin't swear once. Honest I didn't.  Thankfully he didn't show me the rest of the photos until later.  Apparently the rucksack was doing well and he particularly liked the fleece lined pockets which kept his camera batteries warm so they lasted a lot longer in the freezing cold.

Crucial point - the side pockets are big enough
for a flask of tea.

WATER

Standing behind Ashgill Falls

Cumbria has a reputation for rain and we miss it so much that when it doesn't rain we go and stand behind a waterfall to recreate the experience.  Ashgill Falls are well off the beaten track and, to be honest, I was a little disappointed when Steve told me that there wasn't an evil lair or a stash of hidden treasure tucked away behind the falls.  Or maybe he just didn't look hard enough...  Of course he tried to make me feel better by telling me he was working,  He was.  He was working hard,  but his work looked like this and mine, on that particular day, looked like and office on a trading estate with a view of an air conditioning unit outside the window...

Apparently everything fitted in. Apart from
the tripod. But that dangled outside.

The North Face of the Waterfall

Are you SURE there was no treasure?

EARTH

See - I told you the tripod strapped nicely to the outside

Having scaled the heights of Helvellyn and hunted for hidden treasure behind waterfalls, on day 3 he decided to keep his feet firmly on the ground and take a wander along the Langdale Valley.  (For the record, I was in another office with a view of another car park, but I was being supplied with an excellent selection of biscuits & cakes).  We both love the Langdale Valley - the views are immense and it's such a peaceful place to be, especially at this time of year.

Yeah, yeah, of course I'm working...

The other good thing about the Langdale Valley is that you can see the weather closing in on you.  You could run for cover when you see a snow storm approaching, or you could stay and photograph it like Steve did.  Nutter.

FIRE

Whether you've been on top of a windy fell, ducking behind waterfalls, dodging storms in the Langdale valley, working in an office or simply strutting your funky stuff to a disco classic (honestly, Let's Groove was way better than September in my book), there's nothing quite like putting your feet up in front of the fire with a proper Cumbrian pint.  Sequins and spandex tights optional.

With thanks again to Millets for the lovely rucksack - which withstood all of the elements Cumbria could throw at it.  😀

Five Favourite Lake District Fells

Impossible to choose?

With so many stunning fells around, how on earth do you start the process of choosing your favourite? Well over the many hours we've spent wandering up and down the fells we've come up with three key criteria for rating them:

1. Looks - how gorgeous is it to stand back and look at?

2. Views - how spectacular are the views from the flanks and the summit?

3. Interest - how interesting is the hike?

I accept that many people will disagree with me and many will rate some fells more highly because of a personal event or special connection, but I've tried to keep this as objective as I can. That said, beauty will always be in the eye of the beholder so, with that in mind, let battle commence!

Blencathra

Wainwright wrote more about Blencathra than he did about any other fell and that's probably because there is so much to say about this magnificent mountain. At 868m high this is the 14th highest of the Lake District fells and stands guard over the A66 just to the north east of Keswick. So how does it stack up in each of the categories?

Looks: Some of the best views of the fell are from Clough Head opposite or Raven Crag at the top end of Thirlmere (where the above photo was taken from). There are also stunning views as you approach along the B5322 through St John's in the Vale. The crenulated ridges sweep from the summit to the valleys below and whichever angle you approach it from, there is always a dramatic view.

Views: One of the striking things about Blencathra is the variety of views from the summit ridge. To the west is Skiddaw while to the south is the broad valley of St John's in the Vale and the ridge route from Great Dodd to Helvellyn. Below you the A66 winds its way eastwards and away towards Penrith but to the north the views are quite different; gone are the high jagged fells, replaced instead with gentle rolling moorland towards Caldbeck. If it's variety of view you're after then Blencathra has it in spades.

Interest: Blencathra is of course home to "Sharp Edge", a narrow ridge of smooth rock, exhilarating to cross in good conditions but best avoided at all other times, which isn't a problem because there are so many other options to choose from. Halls Fell Ridge is a dramatic if energy sapping route rising from Threlkeld directly to the summit or, if you fancy something a little less challenging how about a stroll along the narrow valley of the River Glenderamckin and then on to the summit via path to the left of Scales Tarn? No wonder Wainwright had so much to say about it.

Great Gable

Possibly the first fell I fell in love with. I can clearly remember hiking up Scafell Pike and gazing across at Great Gable as we made our way up around Sprinkling Tarn. It also has a fascinating history; in June 1924 a group of men and women from the Fell and Rockclimbing Club gathered to dedicate a bronze plaque to all its members who had been lost during the "Great War". The survivors had raised the money to buy 3000 acres a land, the deeds to which were presented to the National Trust as a living memorial to those lost. Each year on Remembrance Sunday a service still takes place on the summit. (There's more detail on that history here.)

Looks: It's just the right shape for a mountain, when kids draw mountains, they look like Great Gable. It sits, imposingly beautiful, at the head of Wast Water slap bang in the middle of "Britain's Favourite View". As looks go, this one's a stunner.

Views: It's no slouch in the views department either A 360^o panorama of most of the famous peaks in the Lake District surrounds this fell and stretching away below you to the south west is Wast Water, one of the most remote lakes in the region. What makes the view down over Wast Water so stunning is the simplicity of it all; no rolling hills or farm buildings dotted around, just peaks, screes and water.

Interest. I must admit I'm very fond of the route through Gillercomb and over Green Gable, especially when Sourmilk Gill is in spate, but honestly, can there be any other choice than the approach from Wast Water with the fell looming ever larger as you approach, almost daring you to climb it. And for the more adventurous/ properly kitted out there are an assortment of craggy climbs to the summit. Whatever your mood there'll be something to suit.

Place Fell

This one had been on my list for a long old time before I got around to climbing it, and what a perfect day we chose for it too. Sitting opposite Helvellyn at the south end of Ullswater it's easy to be lured away towards it's more famous neighbour, but that would be missing a real treat.

Looks: Just look at the picture; it's a stunning fell. Driving down Kirkstone Pass it draws your eyes and imagination as you picture yourself making your way towards the summit. Seen from Ullswater it doesn't disappoint either, rising dramatically from the water line to the summit 657m above.

Views: Sometimes you don't appreciate the full beauty of the high fells from the bottom of the valleys; what you need is a medium sized fell to give you a better perspective and Place Fell is perfect for that. From its summit you are ideally placed to admire the sweep of the Helvellyn range to the west & south whilst below you Ullswater wraps itself around and draws your eyes away to the north and Penrith away in the distance.

Interest: Perhaps Place Fell doesn't have quite the same number of routes criss crossing its flanks as some fells, but what routes there are, are well worth the hike. The steady rise of the routes from Deepdale Bridge or along Boredale Beck contrast sharply with the steeper hikes from Sandwick towards High Dodd. And once you're done with the summit the lakeside path back to the car is the perfect way to end the day.

Helvellyn

One of the most evocative fell names in the Lake District and the first major fell I climbed. It's also the fell I've climbed most often for a whole variety of reasons, not least of which is the fact that you can pretty much guarantee a free parking space if you're heading up from the Dunmail Raise route. As a child growing up in the West Midlands I'd heard the name Helvellyn and it counjoured up images of dramatic scenery and angry Norse gods.

Looks: Helvellyn may not stand alone but it certainly stands out. Viewed from the Glenridding approach you are greeted by the most perfect glacial corrie with Striding Edge along one side and Swirral Edge along the other; text book stuff. But viewed from the Thirlmere approach it's a completely different place; forested slopes giving way to broad rounded shoulders leading the way to the summit ridge.

Views: Where do I start? If you can name a Lake District fell there's a good chance you can see it from Helvellyn. Well, OK, maybe not all 214 Wainwrrights, but certainly most of the high peaks. They disappear off into the distance in regimented rows all waiting patiently to be climbed next time you pull your boots on.

Interest: There are so many interesting and varied routes to the summit that if this was the only fell you could ever climb it would take you a very long time to get bored. The most dramatic route is via the infamous Striding Edge; a spectacular approach dotted with memorials to remind you to pay close attention to what you're doing. Personally I enjoy the climb along Raise Beck then up via Grizedale Tarna and Dollywaggon Pike as it's usually a much quieter route and is most spectacular in the snow. There's also a much more gentle route up from Glenridding to Red Tarn but beyond that there is a sharp summit scramble via Swirral Edge.

The Langdale Pikes

Yes I know I am cheating massively with this one as the Langdale Pikes are comprised of 4 main summits: Loft Crag, Pike of Stickle, Harrison Stickle and Pavey Ark but look at the photo - how can you separate them? They sit together guarding the western end of one of the most beautiful and popular valleys in the Lake District and it would be a sin to try and separate them.

Looks: The Langdale Pikes are a work of art; perfectly formed, perfectly grouped and a joy to sit back and look at as you enjoy a flask of coffee on a nearby fell. In fact it's worth climbing a nearby fell simply to sit and look back at the Langdales. (Side Pike is a good one, or Pike of Blisco if you're feeling more adventurous and the weather is a little warmer.) The deep gulleys of Dungeon Ghyll & Stickle Ghyll point your eyes towards the peaks above them and there is nothing better on a warm afternoon than a flask of tea and some malt loaf and a view like this.

Views: The Langdale Pikes provide a perfect viewing platform themselves for Crinkle Crags and Bow Fell with Scafell Pike peeking out behind. The fells in this part of the Lake District are craggy and sharp and there is nowhere better to appreciate that than from the top of one of the Langdales. And of course there is the Langdale Valley itself, disappearing off around the bend towards Elterwater; a beautiful ribbon of lush green in contrast to the surrounding craggy fells.

Interest: The climb up along Stickle Ghyll is one of the most popular walks in the Lake District and the large car park at the bottom soon fills up on warm sunny Sundays, If you don't fancy the Pikes themselves then hike up to Stickle Tarn follow the path to your left over to Dungeon Ghyll and descend via Pike Howe. There are more challenging routes up onto the Pikes via Mark Gate or Pavey Ark and there is, of course, Jack's Rake; a dangerous and unforgiving route only to be attempted by experienced hikers with all the right equipment.

Perhaps one of the best things about climbing the Langdale Pikes is the collection of rather lovely pubs around their base, all of which are delightful, though if you want to indulge yourself in a little hiking history and folklore then the Old Dungeon Ghyll is the place to be.

Right, that's me done - over to you - which are your favourite fells and why?  Let battle commence!

Confessions of a fell walker.

There's a danger when writing blogs about fell walking that you can come across as someone who's never put a foot wrong when that is very far from the truth, so here are some of the things I've done, or haven't done, which don't fit neatly with the image of "experienced and sensible fell walker".

1.  On our first hike up Helvellyn (via Striding Edge) I forgot to pack our sandwiches and only took plastic bottles of water, one of which sprung a leak and had to be emptied half way up.  We still made it by topping up our remaining bottle from the streams and eeking out our snacks during the day.  Not clever and not a mistake we've ever made again.

Not the place to forget your sarnies.

2.  We have, on occasion, navigated using the "lots of other people are heading that way so it must be right" technique, only to end up in completely the wrong place.  Well, not so much wrong as different, and silly.

3.  There have been several occasions when I've planned a route because it looked like a "nice circular route" and have failed to take into account the contours indicating steep ascents and descents along the way.  Fair to say we've had a few "lively debates" about those when they've come to light.

C'mon, it's not *that* far...

4.  You know that moment when you're stood atop a crag, gazing away into the distance and think to yourself "I know we planned to do X but that summit really doesn't look that far away."?  Been there, done it, got the T-shirt.  One particular hike involving Scafell Pike leaps to mind.  Having already completed the summit ridge we got distracted by Allen Crags, Esk Pike and Bow Fell before Steve wisely called time as I eyed up Crinkle Crags...

5.  We got hopelessly lost in the mist on Riggindale because we were "so sure of where we were going" that we didn't take a compass reading, even though we had one with us. We ended up having to hike over High Street, in the dark, mist and rain with only an iphone torch to guide us.  Not our proudest moment.

6.  We've never read Wainwright.  I've read a biography about him and am intrigued by his single minded determination to complete the books, and I've flicked through and greatly admired the drawings and handwriting, but I don't want to be told what to look for.  Spoils the surprise for me, rather like squeezing your pressies on Christmas Eve.  One day I'll get around to reading his take on the ones we've already done, but I've got so many other books to read about places I'll probably never visit.

"I can see your footpath from here"

7.  We got soaked to the skin around Haweswater when we set off in glorious sunshine and left our waterproofs behind, convinced it wouldn't rain.  We returned to the car a couple of hours later soaked to the skin and truly penitent.

8.  We didn't check the batteries in Steve's head torch and ended up near sprinting along Borrowdale in Kendal valley to get back to the car before it got dark.

9.  We've mistaken sheep tracks for footpaths more times than I care to admit to.  Maybe that's how the footpaths got there in the first place.

10.  "Yeah, that road looks fine, just give it a bit of a run up"  fateful words uttered recently when attempting to reach Walna Scar car park in the snow.  We didn't make it and discovered that even a Landrover can slide backwards on all 4 wheels on a sheet of compacted snow/ ice.

So there you go, my top confessions.  We've been lucky/ experienced enough to get ourselves out of various scrapes unharmed and have learned lessons from each and every experience.  Life on the fells isn't about being perfect, it's about keeping your head when things start to go wrong and learning your lessons for next time.  And please, tell me I'm not alone - are there any confessions you're willing to admit to?

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow...

Pretty much irresistible...

It's January and the UK is currently gripped with snow fever.  As I type around 1mm of snow is sprinkled across the track outside the house but still it makes the news.  In an hour or so I shall fire up the flasks and head for the fells, but not before I've passed on some of my top tips for hiking in the snow.

(NOTE:  Whilst some of these are light-hearted hiking in the fells in winter is dangerous and should NOT be attempted without all the proper kit and experience!)

1. Snow is cold.  Really cold.  Don't be fooled by the blue skies; you think it's cold when you get out of the car - just wait till you get to the top of the fells.  Load up with as many layers as you can.  This is not a time to be fashion conscious, this is a time to be safe.  The Michelin Man look is de rigueur for winter hiking.

There's a path under here somewhere...

2.  Snow is wet.  I know this might sound obvious to many of you but plenty of people seem to miss this fact and head out without waterproofs because the forecast is dry.  Well the forecast may be dry but the snow will be wet.  And cold (see above).  Any part of your body which comes into contact with it will become cold and soggy which, if you happen to be me, means your boots, socks, gloves, trousers and backside will spend the day in a state of soggy frozen numbness.

3.  Snow is slippy.  It might look all soft and fluffy but that's just a ploy to lure you out there.  Hiking in snow involves slipping over, which is perhaps the main reason why it's a good idea to stick to the safe routes.  If I'm going to fall over I'd prefer to only have a few bruises to show for the experience.  You may just be here for the weekend with a plan to bag a bunch of Wainwrights but trust me, the fells will still be there the tomorrow, you may not. (For winter hiking it is essential to invest in proper walking spikes.  We have Pogu Spikes and would strongly recommend them.)

"Off piste"

4.  Snow hides all the good paths.  Well at least it does at first, by lunchtime most of the main routes have become icy bobsleigh runs leaving you with two choices.  Either slide your way down the main route or get a slightly better grip just off the path but risk vanishing up to your thighs in a drift.  Which brings me to point 5.

5.  Snow is deep.  It has this knack of lying in a lovely flat looking blanket and covering up all the dips and troughs in the landscape.  One second you're walking on solid ground, the next you've vanished up to your thighs in a drift.  This is largely good fun but also a little spooky at times.  Not to mention frustrating and energy sapping if it's towards the end of the day.

6.  Snow disguises landmarks.  The fells look stunning in the snow but they also look different.  Red Screes becomes White Screes, cairns get covered and shelters drifted up.  We can recognise and name most of the fells and are pretty handy with a map & compass, but the snow makes everything look different and that can be disorientating.  Stick to routes you know or use a GPS system to stay safe.

Challenging conditions on Helvellyn

7.  Snow comes from clouds.  Big thick clouds, which often return to the fell tops during the day.  Nothing is trickier to navigate through than thick snowy mist on top of a thick snowy fell.  To put it bluntly, if you don't know how to navigate don't go up there.

8.  Snow nicks all the good lunch spots.  You may have packed a big flask of hot soup but you'll be hard pushed to find a spot to eat it.  For a start it's incredibly cold so you won't be wanting to stand still for too long and secondly all the flat surfaces have snow on them.  You can scrape it off but believe me you will have a numb bum within seconds of sitting down.  Snow hiking is about short frequent snacks to keep your energy levels up.

Winter hiking rocks!

9.  Snow wears you out.  Do not expect to complete the same distances in the snow as you can on a fine day.  The combination of all the factors above make it an energy sapping experience.  The cold on its own can drain you much more quickly than you realise and once you're tired you are much more likely to make mistakes.

10.  Snow is fun!  I don't want to be a doom monger - I love the snow.  Snow is perfect for pelting Steve with snowballs and for making snow men and snow angels and for sledging on and for a million other excuses to act like a five year old, just remember it can also be dangerous.   Right, time to fire up the flasks and head out there!

A year in the Lake District (Part 1 Jan - Jun)

I can't believe it's December already!  As we've been sorting out our admin and filing photos for the year I thought it might be a nice idea to take you through the highlights of the year month by month.  Many people only visit Cumbria during the summer months but, as you'll see from the pics, the weather can surprise us at all times of the year, and there's always something to do.

January

The year kicked off with a chest infection for me, but it didn't stop me sneaking up Crinkle Crags on a particularly stunning morning.

Crinkle Crags

Having started to get my "snow legs" we made the most of the conditions and gave Helvellyn a go.  The shelter wasn't much use mind...

Helvellyn Shelter

Deciding to stay a little lower our next hike took us to Holme Fell and Black Crag.  Stunning location with fab views of 3 lakes - and pretty impressive sunlight.

Black Crag sun

And lastly for the month a wonderful visit to Great Rigg and Alcock Tarn,  You can see from the tarn how peaceful and still the day was.

Great Rigg & Alcock Tarn

February

We enjoyed Crinkle Crags so much the first time that we went back again - though this time via a different route.  This is a fabulous shot Steve got from Three Tarns.

Three Tarns over to Scafell Pike

We got to grips with inversions and caught a few fabulous ones in Feb, after an early start on Gummers How this was the last of the mist disappearing from Loughrigg.

Loughrigg mist

March

March started off much the same way as February ended, but things were about to change.  Not before we'd enjoyed a long day hiking Fleetwith Pike with a night-time finish over Haystacks.

The sun about to bid us farewell...

Later in the month the weather improved dramatically and we enjoyed a few days up at Wast Water.

Picnic lunch on Ill Gill

The next day we headed over Yewbarrow.  Imagine, Yewbarrow in March in T-shirt & shorts!

The other side of Yewbarrow

April

We started April of in pursuit of Swallows & Amazons along the banks of Coniston Water and enjoyed glorious views of the fells.

View from Coniston Water

Easter found us looking at birds of a whole different kind as we admired this unusual plantation in the other Borrowdale valley.

Is it a bird? Is it a plane?

Cumbria Wildlife Trust held an open event at the nature reserve on our doorstep - and it would have been rude not to attend, especially with everything coming into bloom.

Blooming lovely!

And we finished the month with a fabulous hike over Stoney Cove Pike where I spent too much time admiring the frogspawn and mudcracks!

View down to Brothers Water

May

Well, May was a busy month as I was writing for Berghaus and trying to cram in lots of adventures.  Here's just a glimpse of what we did.

A blistering hot day & a lap of Haweswater

After a hot lake next up was a cool roof and some wonderful limestone formations.

Hutton Roof Crags

And then I got to meet one of my heros at the Keswick Mountain Festival...

Chris Bonnington & simpering fan.

...before relaxing on the wonderful Walney Island.

Oyster catchers over Peel Castle

The biggest adventure by far was a descent of Lord's Rake.  Scary and only to be attempted (by me) very slowly and on my backside.

Small person.  Big mountain.

June

To be honest, the weather in June didn't bode well and our street was unfortunately flooded.  We escaped, but some of our neighbours weren't so lucky.  The spring in our garden only bubbles into life after torrential rain and it was going full tilt for around 12 hours.

Lots and lots of water.

Thankfully things were a little drier when we went to see the Red Arrows at the Whitehaven Festival.

The amazing Red Arrows.

We also spent a wonderful afternoon on Foulney Island watching Terns and Kestrels fighting it out.  Sadly the Kestrels appeared to be winning...

Kestrel - on the lookout for more Tern eggs.

And like thousands of others we celebrated the Queens Diamond Jubilee.  A beacon was lit up on Hampsfell and it turned out to be the most glorious clear evening with a stunning sunset and a wonderful full moon.

Standing on the hospice watching all the nearby beacons being lit.

So, that's the end of Part 1.  Part 2 will be up and running tomorrow and will take us from Olympians to Murmurations.