Great North Fun Day 17

Precariously Perched.

Today was brilliant sunshine all day.  Well it was on Lindisfarne, pity we were in Berwick.  At least it wasn't raining.  We spent today on the edge of a weather system and could see the edge of the clouds and the lovely sun all day about a mile or so out to sea. All we needed now was a boat...

I'd always fancied visiting Berwick and wandering around the old fort walls and today I got my wish.  We arrived at the campsite just after lunch - our last proper site and electricity for a week.  We nabbed a gorgeous spot overlooking the sea and town and headed off to explore.  First stop was for some excellent chips - we haven't had nearly enough of those on this holiday!  Then off around the fort walls.  Berwick has done an excellent job providing lots of information all the way around.  There's also lots of info about Lowry who apparently spent a lot of time here with Berwick providing the inspiration for many of his pictures.

Berwick upon Tweed

During our wanderings we spotted a poster advertising Shakespeare's Globe Theatre Company who were to perform 'A Comedy of Errors' in the shadow of the Elizabethan ramparts later that evening.  I've always wanted to watch outdoor theatre so we sorted out tickets and cobbled together a quick picnic in Safeway.  Not exactly a Fortnums Hamper, but a pack of picnic eggs, some Kettle Chips and a can of G&T and I was happy.

We were the first to arrive and nabbed a lovely bench under a tree and watched everyone else arrive.  Most had come very well prepared with huge hampers and comfy chairs.  So comfy in fact we were half expecting to spot someone wheeling in a sofa.  The performance was excellent - really funny and well acted and directed.  Another lovely end to another lovely day.

Tomorrow we head off into Scotland to try our hand at wildcamping for a few nights - or until we realise we're from Hampshire and not the Wild West and can no longer manage without electricity, so if I'm not around much over the next couple of days you'll know why.

Great North Fun Day 16

Lindisfarne Castle

As the saying goes "Tide and Time wait for no man".  Well today the tide was covering the Lindisfarne causeway and the time was 8am.  Not a time we're used to getting up on this trip but the causeway opened at 10am and we wanted to be there to make the most of the whole day on the island.  As we crossed and splashed through the remains of the retreating sea I made a strong mental note to leave plenty of time for the return journey, I've a healthy respect for Mother Nature and in a Tide -v- Delores battle I know who'd win.

First stop was the castle which I can strongly recommend and, as newly joined up members of the National Trust, it was free for us.  Each room had been well laid out and there were laminated sheets and National Trust staff around if you had any additional questions.  The even had a couple of different levels of treasure hunt style puzzles for the kids.

A rather camp Knight of Old...

After that it was off to The Priory and I have to say not such good value at all.  Due to there being a 'special event' which we had no interest in the entrance fee was higher - £11 for 2 adults. (English Heritage own the priory).  Once inside there were a number of display boards explaining a bit about the history of the place but that was it.  My advice would be to read up on the history before you go and not pay to go in.  Instead take the path to the right of the church next to the priory, this will lead you up onto a bank behind it and give you all the views you need.

After a spot of lunch we explored the island a little more and were already becoming mindful of the now incoming tide.  For every tourist there is of course the trip to sample some of the 'world famous' Lindisfarne mead.  Ever since Jesus turned water into wine there has been a close link between Christianity and alcohol with monks seemingly capable of fermenting just about anything. No wonder they all had so many visions.  Still it's left a useful legacy as all the wine is now being turned into profit.

The Causeway

We left the island in plenty of time and parked up somewhere very safe to watch the tide come in - definitely worth doing.  Nothing happened for an hour or so after the causeway has technically closed but then the tide suddenly arrived and covered it at a truly amazing speed.  You couldn't stand near the water for more than a few seconds before it was over your feet again.

Happily reassured that Lindisfarne was once again an island and now safe from marauding tourists for the next 6 hours we headed for the campsite.  This time a very nice CL just up the road from the CCC site. This place is cheaper, still has showers and loos but has the added advantage of EHU.  If you're in the area I'd certainly recommend staying here rather than at the main site.

As we were soaked to the skin we popped the heating on, made a couple of coffees with large doses of Irish cream liquer and curled up to watch some silly comedy on TV. Have to say that apart from the torrential rain, it's a day I'd struggle to find fault with.

Great North Fun Day 15

Today I got asked if I was an OAP.  Admittedly it was by an 8 year old child but still, it made me think that perhaps this trip isn't doing me as much good as I thought it was!  I felt a bit like an OAP though after cycling uphill into a headwind for an hour or so.

First stop today was Seahouses to catch a boat to the Farne Islands. The trip we wanted wasn't running due to bad weather (it is still August isn't it?) so we went to Inner Farne instead.  Along the way we were lucky enough to see Puffins, Seals and a whole variety of other sea birds.  I know people take motor homes on tours all over the world but I doubt there are many views to beat standing on Inner Farne on a blustery sunny day and looking back over towards Bamburgh castle. Spectacular.

After that we carried on up past Bamburgh on the bikes to get some more stunning pics before heading home.  This time down hill and with the wind behind us we made it in half the time, we were so fast in fact it got me wondering if you could fit a flux capacitor to a bike...  We then enjoyed our first blue bucket BBQ of the trip before a quick evening paddle and Steve beating me at TopTrumps again. Curses!

Excuse the short entry today but we still have no electric so I've no way to recharge my phone. Tomorrow night sees us back in the modern world so things should return to normal.  We're also hoping to get across to Lindisfarne tomorrow, but there's a gale brewing so we'll have to wait and see.

Bamburgh Castle

Great North Fun Day 14

14 days already?!! It just doesn't seem possible and yet here I am after 2 weeks on the road sitting in Delores opposite the most stunning views...but more of that later.

Craster Kipper

With not a vast amount of reluctance we bid farewell to our backyard CL. Not picturesque but practical in many ways. Today our mission was to break free of the gravitational pull of Newcastle, not an easy task at the best of timess but one that is made ten times harder when your satnav appears to be in cahoots with Newcastle's magnetic masters.  After several laps of Gateshead we finally made it to the open road.  Keen to embrace the impulsiveness of life in Delores we followed signs to Earth Balance only to find it had closed down some time ago.  Not sure how the Earth has been managing without it.  After that we continued on stopping for one of our most fabulous lunches yet in a car park next to the beach at Alnmouth. A stunning location which you should definitely seek out when you're in the area.

Next stop on our list was Craster for a kipper.  The main problems here were that the car park needed £2 and we arrived in the middle of a deluge. We found a parking spot and I left Steve in charge of the van while I went in search of change.  By the time I'd established that the only thing in Craster was a smokery  I was utterly soaked - but I'd got me a kipper so it was mission accomplished and off to the campsite.

Beadnell Bay

The site itself is stunning if a little close to a main road and completely lacking EHU.  Not sure how the CCC justify over £15 per night for no electricity but there we go. We needed at site in the area and this was the only one with spaces.  When we arrived we were ticked off for not both having our membership cards and after showing us to our pitch the warden said "I think you're the last tonight, thank goodness.". The sign outside said 'Non Members Welcome'.  Maybe that was our problem. If we'd been non-members we'd have been welcome but as members we were clearly an inconvenience.

No electricity meant digging our the games box and after jointly winning a game of patience Steve wiped the floor with me at Top Trumps - who says romance is dead?  Tomorrow we plan to take a boat trip to the Farne Islands if the weather allows. At the moment it's blowing a gale and chucking it down, still, what else do you expect from a British summer?

Great North Fun Day 13

Today I decided for certain that there really must be a God.  Not because I had some amazing 'Saul on the way to Damascus (or in this case Whitley Bay) blinding flash of light' experience but because who else could be up there using their immaculate sense of timing to switch on the rain each time we stepped outside a building and then switching the sun back on as soon as we'd got ourselves a coffee. Oh yes, He's up there alright and I'm not sure I like his sense of humour.

St Mary's Lighthouse

The rhythm of today went something like this - drive, walk, rain, run, café, sun, walk, rain, run, amusements, sun, walk, rain, run, drive, sun, walk, rain, run, café, sun, walk, rain, run, drive, sit in car taking pictures of lightening over St Mary's lighthouse, drive back. In the sun. At least we'd taken our waterproofs.

To be honest that was pretty much it for the day. The coffee was delicious and at lunchtime we found a wonderful old seafront cafe that hadn't changed in 30 years or more. We had proper old fashioned milkshakes and Club biscuits - though they weren't quite as chocolatey as we remembered them. I wish there were more places like this around with a bit more character. So much better than the bland franchised coffee emporiums we see everywhere these days.

In the evening we treated ourselves to our first meal out this trip - I'm not counting the chips in Stockton. We found a spectacular little Italian restaurant and although the staff were clearly more familiar with Newcastle than Naples we could not fault the food of the service and my wonderfully garlicky chicken has ensured full protection from vampires for the remainder of the trip.

Tomorrow we continue north and plan to head up through Craster to Beadnell Bay just south of Bambrugh. Oh, and in case you were worried, most of the washing dried beautifully.

Great North Fun Day 12

Today was all about laziness and long lunches. Well we can't run around all the time and sadly even the fun and freedom of life on the road has to be interrupted for washing. I can't quite believe how many clothes we got through in our first 10 days. As Steve said, maybe I just need to be smellier. We took full advantage of having good facilities nearby and tackled the bedlinen - it's not at all easy changing bedlinen in a motorhome, the 'duvet sandwich' bedding system is indeed a wonderful thing but it does double the number of duvets to be changed.  Still, amid much childish giggling, crashing, banging and cursing the mission was accomplished - though there's a curious cat shaped lump in the top duvet...

While the washing was drying we nipped off for a spot of lunch. Who am I kidding?  "While the washing was drying..." given the weather we've had over the last few days that's a process that could take a week or more and even the Sex in the City gals couldn't make lunch last that long.  We did try though. We found an excellent pub nearby and as we only fancied something light we ordered the "roast of the day" sandwich.  I was curious when they asked if we wanted ketchup until I saw the 'sandwich'. An enormous flat bread wrapped around half a cow with a pile of chips. In such a situation ketchup is not only needed but may actually be a legal requirement.  Pub lunches are such a hit and miss affair with many just churning out microwaved pies and lasagnes, but this place was truly exceptional.  The food was excellent and the waiting staff friendly and helpful.

Following lunch we did a little spot of local sightseeing but nothing particularly earth shattering.  Our main mission for the rest of the day was to book more sites for the rest of the trip especially as we plan to be in the Lake District over August Bank Holiday and then Blackpool for the start of the illuminations.  We'd happly take more chances over accommodation and not book till a day or so ahead but the problem is that everyone else does book so we either have to join in or risk being... Or risk being what exactly?  Can't be homeless as we're in our home.  I guess it's risking being stuck in a layby next to a dual carriageway, one of the few places we can 'wildcamp' in England.  But we are planning to 'wildcamp' when we hit Scotland. Only for 4 or 5 nights but it will be a new experience for us.  At the moment we're still in the 'back yard' CL and it's very wierd opening our door to come face to face with the back door of the house.

Anyway, tomorrow brings more local sightseeing (city stuff) and an update on the progress of our drying washing. Life in the fastlane eh?

Great North Fun Day 11

I learned three very important lessons today:

1. The best way to ensure glorious sunny weather all day is to carry your waterproof with you at all times.
2.  When you're running worryingly low on fuel and stop at the first place you see, rest assured that just 2 miles further down the road the fuel will be 2p per litre cheaper.
3.  No matter how hard you beat and shake the doormat outside, the moment you bring it inside and accidentally tap it, very gently, against something a fresh shower of bits will fall onto your nice clean carpet.

Low Force

As promised, today we returned to Low Force and walked back along the river to High Force.  It's something I'd definitely recommend. The walk is nice and easy with only one short climb up a set of stone steps, and it follows the river the whole way.  Once at the top of High Force we found a lovely spot right next to the falls to devour our packed lunch. Close up you can see how red/brown the water is making the whole thing look like someone emptied in a giant tanker of cokacola upstream.

After that we wandered off to find Gibson's cave.  I'm not 100% sure who Gibson was and what he did in his cave but it was jolly pretty.  I'm always amazed (and rather pleased) at how relatively deserted these places are. It was 5pm on a warm sunny Sunday in August and we were the only people there. Beats me why identikit city centres all over the country are crammed with thousands of people while the stunning countryside around is practically empty. Like I say, I'm quite pleased about it too as I like the peace and quiet but I still don't quite understand it.

Gibson's Cave

On our way to tonight's campsite we started to run low on fuel and so had our eyes open for a petrol station.  We drove over 30 miles along an 'A' road before we found one. I was beginning to wonder how they powered their cars up here and thought perhaps the fair people of the north had cracked the mystery of perpetual motion and just not told anyone.

The campsite is not far from the A1 and is one of those odd CLs where you're camped in someone's back garden about 30 feet from the house. Still it's a nice enough spot and tomorrow we plan to be very domesticated and get some washing done and then maybe track down "the chippy to beat all chippies" - if we manage to find it I'll let you know how they are.