The Surprising Hills of South Lakeland

Lockdown, sensible precautions and a stuffed up leg has meant we've been exploring some very different parts of Cumbria recently.  To be fair, we started out in January with the intention of "not walking anywhere we've walked before" and that was all going rather well, up until mid March...  For a few months we kind of stuck to that theme by exploring all the paths we'd never taken through Eggerslack Woods - just over the road from us - then we gradually explored further afield and were about to hit the big hills again when 'leg-gate' stopped me in my tracks.  Literally.

So, low hills and easy toddles have been the order of the day.  The thing that we've noticed is that each time we pop out on the top of a local hillside is how surprised we are with the views.  I completely understand the draw of the high fells, but there is much joy and beauty to be found in the smaller hills, not to mention a lot more peace and quiet.

The other big plus is that many of the smaller hills have benches - very handy for resting dodgy legs as well as making perfect picnic spots.  And on top of all that, there's a lot of limestone in the South Lakes so, even where benches are scarce, there's still somewhere to sit.

Anyway, enough waffle, here are five of our favourite small, local, hills.

Whitbarrow Scar

Whitbarrow Scar was one of the first hills I climbed in the area.  When we were camped up here and looking for a house we were staying nearby and often tootled up to the summit.  There are several routes to the top and, once you're up there, there's a long undulating ridge of craggy limestone with extenstive views of the fells from the northern end and stunning views of Morecambe Bay from the southern tip.  Plus plenty of perfect picnic spots.  Honestly, we love it so much we were even up there on Christmas Day 2019 and enjoyed a turkey sandwich on the top.  Perfect!

Scout Scar

While we're on the subject of scars, the next one along from Whitbarrow is Scout Scar.  The big plus for us this year has been that Scout Scar requires very little effort for very big views.  The car park is an easy walk from the main ridge and many's the time we've stopped off there on the way home from somewhere else to finish our flask of tea on one of the perfectly positioned benches.  It's also 'juniper central' with dozens of juniper bushes scattered around the limestone scrub.  It's a popular local walk but there are plenty of criss-crossing footpaths and wide open spaces, so plenty of room for everyone. 

Hoad Hill

Certainly the most popular of all the hills in this blog, but it's the only one that has a scale replica of a lighthouse on it, so how can I miss it out?  The thing with The Hoad is that most folks go up and down the same route at the front, which is all well and good as the views are superb, but they miss out on a very lovely, and gentle, descent around the back.  Honestly, it's really easy to spot on an OS map and very easy to follow - it will lead along a lovely enclosed path and past a fabulously detailed infoboard telling you all you need to know about the area.  Not that my life revolves around tea and cake, but around the foot of the pepperpot (as it's known locally) there is plenty of seating so you can put your feet up and enjoy the view.

The Helm

Sorry for the rubbish photo, but the weather was very grey that day.  The views, however, were still stunning!  The Helm is tucked away to the south east of Kendal, just above Oxenholme (look for the station on the map and you'll soon spot The Helm!).  There's limited parking along the tiny road alond the base of the hill and plenty of paths leading up to the summit.  Once up there the panoramic views will definitely take you by surprise - even on a cloudy day there were perfect moody views of the Langdale Pikes, the Howgills, Hutton Roof Crags and Morecambe Bay.  I'd have to mark it down for picnic spots, but with Kendal on your doorstep you'll not be far from tea and cake.

Dixon Heights

Remember the end of lockdown, when everyone went a bit nuts and Cumbria was absolutely rammed with people?  Well, we went off for a full day hike around Dixon Heights (just before I stuffed my leg).  It's just above Lindale and is open access land with plenty of paths as well as lots of opportunities to make your own route.  We spent over 6 hours wandering around in the sunshine, enjoyed a long lazy lunch and generally had a fabulous time and didn't see another soul all day. Call me antisocial but, for me, that was pretty much a perfect day.

We absolutely LOVE exploring hidden away corners and finding out more about them.  There are loads of great stories and ideas for places to visit in our books - please feel free to browse our bookshelves here.  I know they are available elsewhere online, but we are a small local business and would really appreciate your support. Thank you.

12 Months, 12 Pics

Each year I write a review of the year and each year I waffle on far too much - so this year I'm keeping it simple: 12 months, 12 pics.  As I write this storm Frank is battering Cumbria again and we're looking forward to a drier new year when we can hopefully help to do something to repair the damage Frank and his friends have done to Cumbria's image - but, for now - a quick photographic review of 2012.

January

Book writing meant lots of research and many days spent in libraries - but we also got out and about a bit too.  We revisited Smardale Gill, one of my favourite spots and one of the chapters in our book.  Coincidence? You decide.

View from bench next to Smardale Gill viaduct

February

I loved this walk even though it didn't turn out quite as planned.  Our aim had been to walk up The Band and then on to Crinkle Crags, but towards the top of The Band the most almighty wind hit so we beat a retreat back down and we took a nice long soupy break on this nice, and rather sheltered, bench.

Langdale Pikes from The Band

March

I found myself with an entire day on my hands so decided to take myself off up Black Combe.  Absolutely love this fell and the weather was perfect.  I ditched the car too and took the train around the coast to Silecroft - perfect.

Black Combe

April

There were so many fab places we went in April and so many pics to choose from, but this is definitely my favourite.  Most of the snow had gone but there were a few small patches on the top of Stoney Cove Pike so we walked past them like the mature adults we are...

Incoming!

May

May half term and our nephews came to visit.  There are many fantastic tourist attractions in Cumbria that are perfect for kids, but there's not much that can beat 2 hours on the shores of Coniston Water skimming stones.

June

June was one of the busiest months I've ever had and in amongst it all we took part in the inaugural ride of the Morecambe Bay Cycleway - 4 days kicking off at Sandy Gap on Walney Island and ending at Glasson Dock.  The weather was perfect and so were all of the views.

July

Much as we adore Cumbria we also like to explore further afield.  Throughout most of July and August we were in Scotland.  We began by hiking up Ben Nevis which is definitely further than it looks...

Ben Nevis

August

We drove the north coast of Scotland in our camper van from Skye to Inverness and had an absolute ball.  Sometimes the views that stay with you aren't necessarily the most stunning but the ones that somehow connect with you.  We saw some spectacular sights, but this was definitely my favourite camping spot - the beautiful Tarbat Ness where we had our very own lighthouse keeping us company.

September

Back home and time for a fabulous late summer stroll up one of our nearest fells.  Whitbarrow Scar sits alongside the main A590 but even on the sunniest days of summer you generally have the place to yourself.  It punches well above its weight when it comes to views too - Morecambe Bay sweeping away to the south and rows of fells lining up to the north.  Be sure to pack a picnic!

October

In October my mum came to visit and we were offered the opportunity to try out some off roading mobility scooters.  At 80 my mum may not be so good on her legs any more, but her sense of adventure is clearly undiminished.  So that's where I get it from...

November

After a minor delay our very first book was released on 1st Nov.  It is a whole new adventure for us and it's been thrilling watching it sell.  At the moment we're out of stock, as are our distributors which is, I suppose, good news and bad news all at the same time.  We're hugely indebted to the local press and radio stations for all of their support.

December

I spent a lot of time in December blogging about the #LakeDistrictBid - but when I wasn't doing that I was busy making reindeer at Spooniversity.  Odd sounding but we meet once a month in Brown Robin Nature reserve to learn about woodland management, wildlife and traditional woodworking techniques. 

And that, as they say, is that.  2015 kept us plenty busy and 2016 is looking to be even busier, but before then a couple of restful days with the family and maybe the odd drink or 2...

We both wish you all a peaceful and Happy New Year!

#LakeDistrictBid Advent Calendar Day 15 - Because of the quiet corners...

Millions of people visit the Lake District every year and, to be honest, it's not all that big a place and there are parts of it which get particularly busy, but no matter how busy it gets there are always some quiet tucked away corners.  Places like High Dam and Stott Park Heights, Whitbarrow Scar and the route up Wansfell from Troutbeck are some of my favourite spots to go to escape the crowds.

One of the benefits of gaining World Heritage Site Status will be a possible increase in visitors and an increase in visitors within the national park will lead to more visitors to areas just beyond the boundaries that could really benefit from the income that would generate - places like Ulverston, Barrow and Whitehaven.  I have a real soft spot for those towns with their drop dead gorgeous views and fascinating histories.  The coastline all along Morecambe Bay is so chock full of wildlife that it lured BBCs Autumnwatch back to Leighton Moss for 2 years in a row and walks along the coast are deserted even on the busiest bank holidays.

Ulverston

Just outside Barrow

Whitehaven

Whitbarrow Scar

High Dam

Roadblock between Troutbeck and Wansfell

Leighton Moss

Morecambe Bay

To learn more about the bid and to register your support with just one click (honestly, just one click, no email address needed or anything) please visit the World Heritage Bid site here.

To go back to day 1 of the advent calendar please click here.

No Country for Old Boots

It won 4 Oscars and was raved about by all and sundry but so far as I'm concerned, No Country for Old Men is 2 hours and 2 minutes of my life that I'll never get back.  Shame really, I usually like Tommy Lee Jones.  The thing is I'm about to do one of those review thingumys again and wanted to point out that whatever I might have to say about a product, I can only ever give you my opinion of it, you may choose to disagree and that's fair enough,the world would be a boring place if we all liked the same things (and damned near unbearable if we all liked No Country for Old Men, but I digress...)

If you've read the blog before you'll know how much I loved my old boots and I thought they were doing fine - it wasn't until Steve got some new boots (having killed his old ones walking 214 Wainwrights in 214 days) that I looked more closely at mine and realised that though the tops were fine, the soles were damned near smooth and as the Lake District really is "No Country for Old Boots" (you see what I did there?) I figured it was time to nab me a new pair too.

Enter GriSport - tucked away near the Dolomites in Italy and manufacturing boots in a factory where 70% of the power comes from solar energy.  (Not so easy to do in Cumbria for some reason...)  They sent me a lovely pair of their Everest boots to play with and see what I thought.

Anyway, I figured that as I've been learning Italian for a few years now I'd make the review useful by translating some common English/ Northern phrases into Italian for you as I go - you know, in case you ever decide to visit the factory or anything...

1.  I say, I'm absolutely parched, do you know of somewhere I can wet my whistle?  "Dico, ho grande sete, sai da qualche parte dove posso bagnare il mio fischietto?

Never mind the hiking part, let's tackle the important stuff - do the boots look cool enough to be seen in the pub with.  Yes they do - if there's one thing you can trust the Italians to do it's design something that looks good.  Mind you, that beer looks good too and that was made in Ulverston...

2.  I'm so hungry I could eat a scabby horse. "Ho fame cosi grande che mangerei un cavallo crostoso."  

Not only are the boots good enough to be seen in the pub with, they'd also pass muster in most pub restaurants - so long as they weren't too muddy obviously.  Not found a pub serving scabby horses yet - will look for it on next year's Master Chef.

3.  Do you sell Compeed?  I've got blisters the size of conkers.   "Avete Compeed?  Ho i vesciche come i ipposcastani"

I've given these boots a good workout.  I've done 8 miles up and around Whitbarrow Scar, 5 miles around Hampsfell and another 9 up and over Black Combe and I can honestly promise you that you won't be needing that phrase.  They were proper comfy from the off and my feet were almost as fresh when I took the boots off as they were when I put them on.  The smell wasn't as fresh mind...

4.  In these shoes?  I don't think so! "Nel queste scarpe?  Non penso cosi!"

OK, not so much a phrase as a fabulous Kirsty MacColl song - but a perfect way to point out that the boots come with easy to follow care instructions.  They didn't specifically say no paddling in them, but I'm guessing the salt water wouldn't do them much good.

5.  If I don't sit down soon, I'll fall down.  "Si mi non siedo presto, mi cadró"

I'm pleased to report that although these are high boots (well up over the ankle) they are light (1205g) so if you need to put your feet up to enjoy a well earned rest they won't be too heavy

6.  That'll put a spring in your step. "Quello metterà una balzo in il tuo passo"

Again, light, flexible and bouncable.  Plenty of spring for jumping on and off rocks repetitively so the shot you had planned can be caught on a camera phone.

7.  She took off up Whitbarrow Scar like a rat up a drainpipe.  "Ha decollato su Whitbarrow Scar come un ratto su un tubo di drenaggio."  (And if you're thinking the Italians are using the same words as us for things like rat, it's probably the other way around.  Blame the Romans.)

The day I got them I strapped them onto my feet and took off - no breaking in, no gentle walks to the shops, no nothing - straight on and straight up.  No problems at all.  At least not for me.  Steve was cursing a bit 'cos he didn't have nice new shiny boots to play with.

8.  He was in such a hurry that he met himself coming back.  "Era in tanta fretta che ha incontrato lui stesso tornare indietro"  (This was *really* horrible to try and translate!)

Because they are light and comfy you can whiz around all over the place and have a lot of fun taking silly photos.

9.  Striding Edge?  It was a walk in the park!  "Striding Edge?  É stato una camminare nel parco."

Though I've not  taken these boots up striding edge yet, I can confirm that they are proper hiking boots for proper hikes on proper big mountains.  The high sides keep my ankles cosy and firm and the fabulous grippy soles stop me slipping over quite as much as I used to.  And there was me thinking it was the gin when I could have blamed my old boots all along.

10.  Well, I'll go to the foot of our stairs!  "Allora, andró alla piede del nostri scalini!"

Stairs, hillsides, stiles, whatever - the boots bounded through it all.  I'm trying to think of a downside to tell you about to keep the review balanced and the only 2 things I can come up with are that a half size might be nice as I could feel my toes catching the ends on the descent from Black Combe - though not badly so - and the fold in the leather catches the little toe on my left foot a bit, but that's only because I dislocated it last year and its still a bit grumpy.

I plan to wear the boots throughout the winter and post an update in around 6 months to let you know how they are once they've worn in a bit.  Best get my Italian phrasebook out and start brushing up on my grammar ready.